in a house, that's pretty simple. you build steps to an upstairs or from a basement to outside or from a sidewalk to a porch. those are pretty standard step situations, with fixed heights and widths. steps are trickier outside, in a yard or garden or on a pathway where surfaces vary and may be uneven or off level.
check the post for level. there will be some give in the leanability of your post the higher up you go, which is good news for building a pergola. check for level on two adjacent sides of your post. with someone holding the post in as close to a level position as possible, its time to begin securing the post to the bracket.
then use that one post height as the reference for the heights of the other three posts. you can mark the correct elevation on the other posts by either using a water level, line level, or with the help of another person a 2x6 beam held against the reference post and the post to be marked.
the method that you choose depends on your local conditions and where your pergola is to be sited. if you have good, solid earth - choose the first option. if you want your pergola positioned over a patio or concrete choose the second option as the fixing post is secured by using a hammer drill and masonry bit to drill through the hard surface and then secured using the special masonry bolts provided.
brace the post with stakes. to do this, attach a 1x4 to the side of the post with a single nail or drive screw. when you're satisfied, secure the free end of the brace to a stake driven into the ground. set another brace at 90 degrees to the first. secure with nails. continue this process to set the three remaining posts.
if you set your posts like greg describes, you better have a plan for lateral stability, or in the next big wind, it will probably fall over. i subscribe to deck'sect method. use pressure treated posts, treated to ground contact specs. this will give you the lateral stability. drain rock at the base of the poss, and slope the concrete at the top away.
set posts in the holes and ensure they are plumb add 2-3 inches of crushed rock to holes to promote drainage and prevent wood rot. drop six-by-six posts into holes. ensure pergola posts are plumb with a post level. clamp temporary braces to stakes and posts to hold them vertical.
this will connect the pergola posts to the footings or slab, and also hold the bottom of the post up 1 from the concrete surface to keep the bottom of the posts out of water that may accumulate on the patio.
ask southern= southern vinyl mfg llc informational video installing a post mount system on a concrete sloped surface: accessibility ramp. ask southern - installing post mount on slope surface
the 4 corner posts won't be on the patio itself; i'm going to remove bricks in the corners and pour 18' concrete footings. the posts will be secured to the footings with heavy-duty angle ties. since the footings will be below the level of the brick, and they'll be about 12' from each other,
for 6×6 pergola posts, 12 concrete forms are recommended. also, check your zone for the freeze depth to determine how deep your concrete support needs to be. in our zone, this is 30 deep. use a hand saw to cut the 12 concrete form to size. place the form into your dug hole.
a: our posts are adjustable in height to compensate for an uneven floor surface. it is important to keep the top of the pergola as level as possible. q: is a building permit required?
you have to start by digging holes in the points where you will place the pergolas posts. make said holes with a diameter of at least 12 inches and a depth of a third of the height of the post for example, if the post is 15 feet tall the holes need to be 5 feet deep .