the construction would be much stronger if the posts were 6x6 and the trimmers were perhaps 2x10. 2x8 joists notched in by 2 or 3 inches would be good and leave the trimmers uncut. to brace the pergola against shear, a couple of 1x3's at a 45 across the top joists would be decorative and add tremendous strength to the finished project.
measure and mark where each beam will go by placing an x. i would also suggest recessing the beam into the 2 x 12. mark out the area that will need to be cut out to recess the beam. it will need to go 5 ½ inches deep and be 1 ½ inches wide. cut the 2 x 12 with your reciprocating saw and jig saw.
this video shows you the steps and tools needed to cut really nice tips at the ends of your pergola boards. this video shows you the steps and tools needed to cut really nice tips at the ends of
as this will be used to cut sharp angles, it would have to be fairly large to properly guide the saw. cut it out on the band saw and sand to the line on the disk sander: since the fence will swing in an arc to the chosen angle, there has to be a way to lock it in place.
next, you have to build the shade elements for the pergola out of 2×8 lumber. therefore, mark the cut elements to the slats and get the job done with a jigsaw. smooth the cut edges with sandpaper and remove the residues properly. it is essential to make 1 1/2 x 3 notches to the component, otherwise it wont fit properly to the support
the jigsaw cuts a full arc across the board and then the mitre saw cuts the 45 degree angle. yes you could have done this all with the jigsaw but this is cleaner and faster. the pencil mark on the saw is a guide so you don't need to measure every time. circular saw. a simple pattern like that could almost be done just with a circular saw. i doubt that is your pattern but one of the cuts might be.
shade area: this is the distance from the center of one post to the center of the opposite post. size of pergola: this is the shade area in depth plus the front overhang and the back overhang. the shade area in width plus the left overhang and right overhang.
the size of the cuts should vary according to the size of the beams you use, but in our case we have used the right proportions to fit with the rest of the pergola elements. pergola plans after installing the support beams on one side of the pergola, you have to proceed in the same manner for the opposite side.
cut your marked line, then cut a series of lines parallel to it, fairly close together, all the way to the top of the post. knock out the waste with your hammer, and clean up any remaining chunks with a wood chisel.
the second edge is the long side of a right triangle and is marked with a degree scale. calculate angle cut - note where the bottom edge of the rafter crosses the degree scale on the rafter angle scale. if there is a slot cut parallel to the degree scale on your rafter angle scale, this is the vertical rise indicator.