on larger jobs, i like to distribute the posts along the fence line by having a person pace off the distance between posts while another person throws posts off the truck or trailer. drive the post with the small end down and hold the post vertical at the proper spot leaning it slightly into the post driver. lightly drive the post at the start.
step 1. measure out the fence line and mark on the rock where each post is to go. at each mark, use a rock drill to cut a series of holes in a circle and inside the circle. drill holes to create a circle twice the diameter of the post and 6 to 10 inches deep.
fill in the bottom four inches of the post holes on the slope with sand. put the post in the hole, utilize the level to check for vertical strhtness, and pour fast-setting concrete into the hole. fill the hole up to the last two or three inches from the top and wait 20 minutes for the concrete to harden.
druin uses two methods to deal with major rocks. 'for posts that must go into solid rock, we have a truck with a rock drill with tungsten carbide bit mounted on it, just like the power company
one-man method. the stake-out method makes it possible for a man working alone to align a fence. drive two stakes into firm ground near each post, and nail an arm to each stake. set posts onto rock or gravel at the bottom of the hole, checking alignment against the string. use a level or a plumb bob to true one face of the post.
gather or stack rocks and secure them with net wire, or make a cage and put rocks into it. a cage 3 to 4 feet in diameter makes a solid anchor to secure your fence wire and stretch it from, he says. if terrain is too rocky to set wood posts, you can usually put steel posts in deep enough to hold, using rock baskets every so often for braces. related: 7 common cattle fencing mistakes. another strategy for rocks or frozen ground when using a post-pounder is to create a pilot hole.
allow the posts to dry overnight before installing the fence. dig a hole two to three times the diameter of the fence post and 24 to 48 inches deep. the posts stand upright best when you bury one-third of the total post length, but you might not be able to dig as deep, so a minimum of 24 inches is acceptable.
a typical rock fence post is 4 to 5 feet tall and can weigh from 500 to 1,500 pounds. a few farmers supposedly quarried posts during the winter by drilling holes in the rock and, before a freeze, pouring water into the holes, which was supposed to have cracked off the posts, but duane vonada, a third generation stonemason at sylvan grove, kan
lay out the fence line by walking along its proposed course with a measuring wheel, driving a stake into the ground wherever a fence post goes. the distance between fence posts is the same as the width of a privacy panel minus the width of a fence post, since the panels are attached to the post at the center line.
for a six-foot-tall post, therefore, you would dig a hole two feet deep. the ideal diameter, meanwhile, should measure three times the width of the post. so, for a standard 4×4, the ideal hole would span twelve inches across. its important to note that fence-post holes must be flat-walled and barrel-shaped,
if you're using preset panels, take that into consideration when marking for the holes. use marking paint to mark the post hole locations. setting fence posts in concrete set fence posts in fast-setting concrete if you're planning to leave the fence in place for a long time or if you have very loose, sandy soil. first dig the holes using an
imagine a fence post, with a cylinder of wire mesh around it. the fence post goes on one side, and the rest of it is filled with rocks. the wooden post is against one side of the rock-filled cylinder, so the fence wire can be fastened to the wood if the fence post. if that makes sense.
i have always used treated posts and crushed gravel to secure fence posts. i dig a little deeper and add maybe 6' of gravel to assist with drainage around the bottom of the post. the post is then set with the aid of a rock bar. if the gravel is properly compressed the post should never waver.
generally, bury one quarter of the post to provide a firm foundation. if for example, your finished fence needs to be 6 feet 1.8 m high, use 8 feet 2.4m posts. one quarter of 8 feet is 2 feet. therefore dig a 2 feet deep hole to take the 8 feet high post which will give 6 feet above the ground as the visible post.
rock fall fence. here show rock fall fence and fence post detailed specification: including wire diameter, tensile strength, zinc coating. there are also introduce the fence bar specifications and other more info. rockfall barrier or rockfall netting is used slope protection. rock mat provides support and protection to vulnerable slopes. news.
dig a hole around 1 side of the fence post. with a shovel, break into the ground surrounding the fence posts concrete base. keep digging until you create a half-circle gap between the ground and concrete. if possible, dig a hole that is as deep as the concrete itself, giving the post as much wiggle room as possible.
trowel the concrete into a slope shape. smoothly cap off the top of the cement with a trowel, grading it outwards from the post. aim for a slope roughly ½ inch 1.25cm above ground level, dropping to about 1 inch 2.5cm below ground level. this pitch will allow the water to flow off the post, preventing pools of water that promote decay.
fence post in solid bedrock on a slope. i want to put a wooden fence post around my property. the problem i have is that the back half of my backyard is all bedrock and sloped about 30 degrees, maybe more.
here we are digging in the texas hill country. watch what happens at 1:21 seconds. we can drill like this in boerne, canyon lake, austin, wimberley , dripping springs, blanco. you name it.
most fence contractors use post hole diggers or post pounders if there are only a few rocks. there are several types of diggers and pounders that can be mounted on a tractor, front-end loader, or bobcat. the digger uses an auger or drill to go down through the soil and create the proper size hole for a post.
building fence can be a challenge in rocky, frozen or swampy ground where its impossible to dig postholes efficiently or set posts with a tractor-mounted post-pounder. options in rocks include digging holes with a backhoe or chipping away the rock, if its a formation that will chip and break
according to a 1975 book, land of the post rock by grace muilenburg and ada swineford, it is possible to find rock posts fashioned similarly in other areas of the world but not in the abundance and as extensively as in this region. a typical rock fence post is 4 to 5 feet tall and can weigh from 500 to 1,500 pounds.
push the end of a batten into the hole to make sure there are no air pockets and there is a firm even mix all around the base. when the hole has been filled, it is worth building the concrete up, just above ground level, and slope it away from the post. this will deter water running down the post and into the base of the post.
the average wood fence post seems to be a square timber that is a 4-inch by 4-inch post or possibly a 6-inch by 6-inch post. the surface area of the post in the soil is what determines how quickly a fence will tip in the wind. smaller fence posts will yield much faster than larger posts assuming both are buried at the same depth.
they're round, half-round or square / diamond-shaped. the rails insert into the holes in the posts and are held in place by their own weight. posts are made to accept either two or three rails. two-rail fence posts are approximately 6 feet long, and three-hole posts are approximately 7 feet long. posts are predrilled for use as end, corner or line.
they were cut green and placed in a three foot deep post hole backfilled with crushed gravel with fines. these were placed on high ground that drained down into a creek about thirty yards away. even with the slope and nearby drainage, the post sprouted like they were prized cuttings placed in a vase.
rock size is dependent on the size of the holes in the wire mesh -- the stones should be at least an inch larger than the size of the holes. use wire cutters to cut pieces of the fencing to form the sides of the cage and lash them together with bailing wire. gabion cages should not exceed 3 feet in height,
2. place about 6 in. of aggregate in the bottom of the posthole to allow for drainage. the bottom of the post should extend a few inches into the aggregate as shown. 3. pour the concrete so that its above the soil level. trowel the top smooth and slope it so that water runs away from the post.